terra firma

My attempts at intrepid travel

Me in the big city May 30, 2006

Filed under: Greece 2006 — mih5002 @ 9:37 am

Today we visited the National Archeological Museum again to look at classical sculpture. The lecture only lasted an hour, so the roomies and I struck off for breakfast around 10. Now, we’re living in a neighborhood in relatively the southeast corner of Athens. The museum is almost dead center. We wandered for a few blocks, found a cafe, ate quiche and NesCafe (the version of iced coffee they have here – it’s a brand name, but used generically even on menus). The we bought trolley tickets, rode the half hour to the trolley stop, got some groceries, walked home…. I struck off the four blocks or so and navigated the post office alone, and even mostly in Greek (FYI, postcards are on the way), then meandered back here to write something to you all.And then it struck me. We’ve navigated this city from edge to edge, I know the trolley and how to work it, and the metro, and even walking the absurd distances. The neighborhood names have meaning, as do the big streets. I feel confident in my ability to get around, and not just the few blocks around the apartment. I’m doing this city thing – and I think I’ve got the hang of it.

I don’t know if I’ve mentioned how wonderful our cleaning lady is. She comes in every few days or so to clean, always makes our beds and straightens our stuff, folds any clothes we may have draped around, puts away dishes in the strainer…. and, she left us frozen pizzas in the freezer. She speaks no English, so when I ran into her in the apartment today, I immediately looked up how to say a huge thank you for everything. She is just the sweetest lady! The older man who runs the center is the same way, except her speaks English. The other day, right when we got back from Delphi, I was in the center just as it was closing. He told me I had 15 minutes, and I said thanks, I was just emailing my mom and dad quickly. 8 o’clock came, and he asked if I needed some more time; I said I was almost done.”You have 15 more minutes to write to your mother, yeah? It’s no problem, miss. Say hello to home for me.”

People are so fantastic.

We’re heading down to the beach again soon and have to buy some fruit for the trip (the fruit here is the best I’ve ever had, I think I’m addicted to oranges and cherries – I didn’t even think I liked cherries! Oh, and mom, tomatoes? Yum. Finally, I say yum to them). We’re making plans to ferry over to one of the Islands for the 5 days in between sessions. It should be amazing.

We leave Thursday for a long weekend in Corinth and Olympia on Thursday morning. I’ll post again when we’re back in Athens either Sunday or Monday.

Love you all!!

 

Photos are up! May 29, 2006

Filed under: Greece 2006 — mih5002 @ 3:07 pm

I have some of the best pictures from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi and the hike up Parnasus on Yahoo photos. Today we went to the Acropolis again, then wandered around towntown Athens. We found shop called The Poet, where a man will custom make a pair of leather sandles for you for 20 dollars…. its amazing! I got a perfectly fitting, wonderfully comfortable pair.

I’ve noticed that people honk a good bit here. And not just like New York City traffic honking, but just driving down the street random honking. Its like a warning to people walking on a sidewalk that the car is coming, or something. Its taken a while to try and get used to. People here drive crazy (think Rome, Jenny and Jimi), but at least they let you know they’re coming, I suppose? its hard to get used to, espeically at night. If there ever comes a night when I’m going to bed NOT totally exhausted, I’ll be in trouble.

I feel a bit sunstruck after today, but I think its because I missed my nap. Everyone here is really into the afternoon siesta idea… I think whoever came up with the idea that not just kindergarten students need naps was brilliant. WTF letting that one go, America? Anyway, I missed mine today, and thats sad.

About all the updates for now. We’re heading to Corinth on Thursday, but I will probably write again before then.

Oh, and Sar: I’m being SO good with my journal. Everyday. Are you?

Andeeo!

 

Back in Athens May 28, 2006

Filed under: Greece 2006 — mih5002 @ 5:02 pm

Kalispera everyone!!

I’m back from the Delphi weekend trip! It was wonderful. I only have a few minutes until the computer lab closes, so I’ll write more later. To be brief, Thermopylae was beauitful, the mountains in general are absolutly staggering, and Delphi is the most beautiful place on earth. We visited the Temples of Athena and Apollo where the ancient Pithea oracle was located, then a group of 10 of us climbed the INCREADABLY huge Mount Parnasus. The views literally took my breath away. On the way back, there was a herd of goats crossing our path, and the sheepdogs would not let us go until they had all crossed. So we waited 15 minutes at a goat-crossing 4-way stop on the top of a mountain. Oy vey……..

Lesson: goats always have the right of way

Thanks for all the comment everyone! I’ll post more pictures soon – I’ll try to get one or two up now. I miss you all so much, and mucho love all around!!

It’s the one week mark!

 

Quick addition May 25, 2006

Filed under: Greece 2006 — mih5002 @ 12:42 pm

Holy crap its hot. I’ve been in this computer room for about an hour, and its got to be topping 100, being on the third floor of a non-airconditioned room with 20 computers.

Nonetheless, pictures are up. Please enjoy. I’m melllltingggg……..

 

Happy Bruise May 25, 2006

Filed under: Greece 2006 — mih5002 @ 11:45 am

The internet is WAY slow here. I’m trying to upload some pics, but it may be a while. You might see them sooner if I just bring them home.Yesterday (Wednesday) we had a tour of the Acropolis and Agora, took our first quiz, sat is the driest grass I’ve ever experienced, and stumbled out parched and sweating anyway into a huge shopping bazaar. Every street had ever kind of vendor – except food. We eventually found Gyros (yummm!) and Coke (its universal), then shopped for a bit. We made our way slowly back home after meeting one shopkeeper, prolly late 20s/earlier 30s, who had studied in Michigan, lived in Flint, then moved back to Greece to be with his mom. Isn’t that cute? He taught us how to twirl worry beads, and told us where the best places to go in the city were. Yay!

We hiked back home (my legs looked chiseled already. I think I’m doing 8 miles a day, uphill. This morning, my calves hurt so badly I could hardly stand up – all from walking. Yikes). At 3, we all met at Arcadia to go to the beach!! It was an absurdly long, bumpy trolly ride, for which I got to stand for the entire 35 minutes on legs that were more liquid than solid. But it was worth it.

For the record, yes, the water really IS that color. That indescribable blue color. And (ehem, mom) there were NO waves. Just little lapping things. The downside? It was REALLY cold (although not as cold as our shower. The hot water tank is BROKEN, by the way, for the next few days. Joy.) We splashed around, swam as much as we could, then started playing this odd quasi-volleyball meets monkey in the middle game with a gaggle of high-school age looking Greek boys. The game went something like this: you stood in a circle at the waters edge, one person sitting in the middle. Then to batted the ball around, and the person in the middle tried to get it without standing up. But, if you were the last one to touch the ball before someone missed it, you had to join the person in the middle. The big trick? The boys’ favorite part was to spike it at the people in the middle. If you caught it, you were all free and the spiker had to sit; if you missed, it hurt. I think I have a bruise on my stomach. Its a happy bruise…

We ate dinner and watched the sun set at a little beachside restaurant. I had kalamari – it was thicker and less fried than anything I’ve had at home. Then we came home via bumpy trolly, showered and got mini-hypothermia, and met back up to explore the area at night. Fantastic day.

Today, we went to the National Archeological museum in the morning. I was falling asleep on my feet, so I came back, did laundry (freaking SMALL washer, lemme tell you), and took a nap. Now I have to write a 15 minute presentation in Herodotus. We might be exploring the suburbs with Billy, our TA who knows everything about the area, around 4:30 (its about 2:30 now), or maybe just hang around here until tonight. Tomorrow we head off for Delphi and Thermopile, so I doubt I’ll be writing again until we get back Sunday or Monday.

FHND, Mom! Love you all so much! Hopefully this computer will let me put up some pictures soon…

Andeeo!

 

Adventure the first May 24, 2006

Filed under: Greece 2006 — mih5002 @ 11:52 am

May 23 – Tuesday

Today I had my first big adventure. First of all, I woke up just before 7, tossed and turned, and decided at last to get up, move around, eat something, and most of all, drink something. I had a glass of orange juice, which the Arcadia people thoughtfully stocked the apartment with. Then I had a strange cookie, two wafers more or less with vanilla frosting. I had my alarm set for 8:50, and decided to lie back down for an hour or so until it went off. It did. I was in the hardest sleep of the night. At 9:20, I woke to some alarm on a car on the street below and sprang out of bed. Figures, right?

I met our fourth and final roommate, whom the other girls had met the night before when they came in (around 2, I think). So now the gang’s all here: Stacey from Austin, Natalie from Houston, Anna from
Atlanta, and me. They all seem wonderful.

We headed over to the Arcadia center for a 45 minute intro to the course, then came back to the room and, with a huge gaggle of people, went to the supermarket for food stuffs. A successful shopping experience, except that 4 of our 6 eggs didn’t survive the trip back home.

Athens is beautiful. Crowded, compact, and WHITE. The whole city is built of white, pink, or other light pastel colored stones. People are everywhere, and everything seems to move a little slower – except the cars. I saw my first Greek SmartCar today, too. Yay!

There are cats and dogs all over the place too. Just darting here and there, saying hi, hanging around. I love it! 

After shopping we came back to the room and huge out around the kitchen table, talking about NOT being able to speak Greek, swaping stories about our homes, and so on. At 2, we all met back at the
Arcadia center to go on a “walk” with Billy, our social program coordinator. We “walked” to the highest peak in Athens – and when I say “walk,” I mean hiked. It was steeper than I think any of the Colorado hikes. I forgot to put on my tennis shoes, and the marble and gravel path was way slippery in flipflops. But doable. I felt in better shape than a lot of the people in the group.

About halfway up, I got my first few of the Acropolis. I squeaked, and my hands flew over my mouth. It was hazy with the smog of the city, but there it was, rising practically straight out of the white city see on a hill of green. I hung back with Rachel, from New Jersey, to exclaim.

At the top of the mountain was the church of St. George, a beautiful white structure with a café. Yes, a church with a café. The view reminded me of the view of Paris from the top of the Eiffel Tower or the Arc de Triomphe, but the city was something all its own: a vast spread of white, interrupted only by cleared areas with ruins that seemed to magnetically repulse modernity in a perfect oval around it and sharp jutting hills of green. We could see the mountains, and beyond them, the vague mass of the
Aegean. It was broiling hot, the sun merciless, and the wind practically nonexistent. If no one got heat stroke, it’s a miracle.

We sat and had iced coffee and ice tea at the café. I saw with my roommates, plus Rachel and her roommates Amanda, Joy, and Taisiya, and we talked about all sorts of things, like high schools, colleges, marriage (Joy is engaged), and so on. It was fantastic.

Around 4:30, Rachel and I took off to the Acropolis. We thought it closed at 6, so we really booked it, navigating the subway the two stops and one bus exchanged needed to get there (we were so proud!) and using the #1 Greek word so far: something like ef-hari-sto (thank you). We made it, and after trying to get into the wrong entrance, showed our student IDs for the Arcadia program and got in for free! Yay!

It was under a lot of reconstruction, so the scaffolding took away from the overall effect, but it was still wonderful. Rachel is an art history major and knew all sorts of great details. I think my favorite part was crouching behind the temple with the Caratid Pouch, touching the base of an ancient column capital, and feeling a stiff breeze blowing through a hole opening to the steep drop down towards the city. It was fabulous.

The view was spectacular once again, and there was one vantage point from which you could see nearly every great ruin and monument in the city. We stayed for about an hour (it didn’t close at 6. We don’t know where Billy got that idea), then made our was in this roundabout circle through a good many souvenir shops to find food. We were both fading fast, and gratefully found a place where the man spoke English and they served sandwiches. We sat for an hour, talking about all sorts of things including boyfriends and exes, saw three of the boys from the group (David, Jack, and Renwan), then tried to take the subway back only to discover AFTER we used out ticket that the subway didn’t get any closer to the apartments. So we walked. In the growing dark, we made out way along a highway, on the skinniest, more overgrown sidewalk ever, where I added a squashed berry to the list of disgusting things on my feet, and then up the darkest and most obscure alleyways, stairways, and finally (after getting hysterical trying to read the map), found the apartments. We got back around 9:30, 9:45 (its 10:20 PM now, 3:30 PM back home). I wanted to get a shower right away, then remembered I had to wait for the hot water to heat up, so I decided to type this out. No one else is here; I bet they all went out together. While I wouldn’t have traded today for anything, I do kind of wish I could have gone out with the roomies. Now I’d imagine I’m in for the night (not that that’s all bad. I hand-washed my khaki shorts, prolly will eat something else, shower, and do the reading for tomorrow), but Rachel is only here for the first program (remember how you jokingly said not to befriend someone here for only the first half, Mom? Whoops.), and all the other girls are here for the whole 6 weeks, but its only the second night. I shouldn’t be worried. It just sucks because I felt sick last night, and I wanted to be with them tonight. Oh well.

We’re talking about taking an overnight ferry toCrete during the gap between sessions. I feel like I could take on the world right now. All I need to go is manage a bit more Greek, and maybe bolster my sense of direction. This apartment is glorious. This city is beautiful (despite its ugly reputation, I for one am in love). Walking back home, a bunch of kids were playing with a ball in the middle of a square. Men, young and old, sit and talk and relax in the hot sun with their worry beads (yep Mom, saw them!). Everyone is relatively friendly, at least. And I have a balcony with a drying rack holding a pair of hand-washed shorts. My feet are as filthy as they’ve ever been (I’m still wearing my flipflops because I don’t want to get the floor dirty, quite a change from last time!). Its just fantastic. And its warm!

 

10:45 PM – I just took the coldest shower of my life. The hot water didn’t work. And I already have 74 pictures.

 

Success! May 23, 2006

Filed under: Greece 2006 — mih5002 @ 8:24 am

Hey everyone! I’m here!! Got in yesterday around dinner time. The flights were all wonderful, the people are great, our apartment is huge, and the neighborhood it breathtaking. Will post more later. For now, its lunchtime.

Love you all and miss you all!!

 

Blog the first May 19, 2006

Filed under: Greece 2006 — mih5002 @ 2:28 am

Hey everyone!

This will be my blog for this summer in Greece. While I have loftly ideals of updating and sharing photos, only time will tell if my dedication to it remains intact. Feel free to email me anytime this summer at mih5002@psu.edu, and if you want a postcard, send me an address!