Wow.
These past 5 days have been maybe the most amazing of my life.
We caught the ferry at 10 at Pyraus port at the tip of Athens. We knew it was going to be an interested ride when we had to carry our luggage ALLLL the way up the top deck…. by ourselves. No storage here for the poor economy class. I want everyone to picture me and my 14 closest Greece friends lugging HUGE rolling suitcases up hard, thin, clanking metalic steps while all the business class passengers watch from their luxury apartment windows on the second floor. I felt like I was going to topple backwards and die.
But we didn’t – we all made it. At first, the ride was amazing. The view was fantastic, it was cold, but not frigid, so jeans and a tshirt were fine as we watched the lights fade into the night. The moon was full and glistening on the water before us – it felt perfect.
Then the wind came, and the temperature dropped, and soon I had not only put on my hoodie (a last minute grab that I might have frozen to death without), and I have my paper thin 3-euro beach towel wrapped around my shoulders for dear life. Me, Natialie, and Stacey all lay down practically burrowing into eachothers spine on the freezing metal deck, slept for about 40 minutes, then realized we couldn’t feel any of our extremities and sucked it up to sleep on the floor of the lounge. It was covered in cigarette butts and croissant crumbs, I think I slept on a coffee stain with a random Greek girls feet more or less up my nose, and the air visibly hung with cigar smoke. Ferry from hell. I was never more happy to see the sun rise (we did, we watched it. It was amazing), or see land.
As soon as the sky was light, the view that greeted us was staggering. The water was navy with shimmers of turquoise and nearly purple sunlight, the islands rosse up in gapping brown cliffs from the misty water, and from a distance white towns frosted the tops of the islands like snow.
We pulled into Santorini on Saturday morning, hailed cabs to take us to the village we were in (Kamari, on the east side of the island), and I thought I would explode with happiness. It felt like every bit of wonder I had felt on the trip since then had been stiffled by something; this was explosive. My heart and stomach left into my throat and did not leave for days. The beauty of that island is like nothing i have ever seen.
Our hotel, Hotel Vatos, was gorgeous – white walls, marble floors and stairs (what a surprise, right?), and flowers everywhere. I roomed with Joy, who sadly is now on her way back home (tears!! She left from the ferry port after the ride back), and litterally teared up when I saw our room, all done in blue with photos of the island and shells on the wall, and a balcony overlooking a sandy courtyard with palmtrees and purple flowers.
And to top off this hotel? It was all of a two minute stroll down the street to the shore. The beach was black sand, meaning mostly tiny gray and black pebbles with thick sand beneath. The water was cool, not freazing, and there were rows of huge boulder-like rocks not far out, perfect for swimming to and laying on.
The first day (Saturday) we all crashed on the beach, then on Sunday we all slept in till almost 11. Joy and I went down the street to my favorite place, Cafe Dolche, and had lemon and sugar crepes with increadable coffee for brunch. Then we all (about 10 of us maybe?) piled into cabs and headed to another beach, this one red sand. It was reachable only by climbing down a mountainside of rust red boulders, there was a cafe literally built into the hillside at the bottom; the water was brilliant turqoise and so clear you could see straight to the bottom. We stayed all day, and I had the most awful excuse for a cheeseburger from the cave-cafe. It was cheap beef meat on a sub bun, with tasteless cheese and waaaay to much ketsup. The upside was a got all the watermelon from Natalie’s fruit salad, which I would have gottan one of had I thought to bring more money with me.
But it just made dinner all that much sweeter. Me, the roomies, and Joy all went out to a seaside cafe, had the fanciest looking drinks I have ever seen, adorned with Greek flags and sparklers (I’m not kidding). Mine tasted exactly like melted mint chocolate chip ice cream. Heaven…..
That night we all sat on the beach under the moon and laughed at everything and nothing. We had a great idea to climb out of the rocky jetty to see if we could see anything, and I was smart and left my camera on the beach. Well…. I was wearing earings, and lost one somehow in our scrambling. I realised this -after- we were back on the sand and I had picked up my stuff, so me and my friend David went back to look for it — and the camera took a flying leap out of my hoodie pocket and into the salty water. We grabbed it, but its toast. Jimi, thank God for you and your insistance on bringing your camera along. I’ll scream from the next mountain we scale that you were right.
Monday we took a packaged guided tour of the island, started with a trip to a collapsed volcano island that looked like Mordor from Lord of the Rings. Stacey managed to trip and rip up her shins pretty well, and Anna was feeling queasy for reasons unknown…. but still, we managed to appreciate the views.
From there we took the ferry to the hot springs, with unfortunatly are reachable only by diving off the side of hte boat into the frigid water and swimming as fast as you can to the hot sulfer springs. That part I could handle…. swimming back to the boat was hell.
And poor Stacey. She couldn’t go in because of the gaping wounds on her leg, so Natalie stayed with her on the upper deck. Well. The railing around the deck wouldn’t stop a small child from falling to the sea, nor did it stop Stacey’s bag from slidding on it. Natalie dove in after it, saved it (the camera and iPod are ruined), but at least its all there. She pulls out her while leather wallet to make sure nothing fell from it, and like a slippery bar of soap, it plundges back into the sea. She -wails-, and I can hear it from the springs. They had to call in a diver to get her wallet, which of course sunk like a stone, from the 25 feet under the waves.
We arrived at our final destination, Ia, around 4:30. From the port in Ia, it is practically vertical climb up the moutainside to the town at the top – so we rode donkeys. Yup. Did anyone see Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants? I was on that donkey. Natalie and I laughed so hard I thought we were both going to fall off the side and pludge into the sea a la Stacey’s wallet.
Ia was the most pictureque city that I have ever been to. Houses were stacked on top of eachother it seemed, all built in glistening white into the hillside. We actually sat on a rooftop that was situated as bench level off of a higher road. It was amazing. Every island with a Greek city on it? That is the postcard-perfect town where we all got to sit and watch the sun set beyond the sea. Simple perfection.
Tuesday we decided to rent cars and explore the island on our own. We would up at this long stip of black beach, I borrowed goggles and looked at the ocea beneath me (so many fish! I wish I could hold my breath for longer….), then went to a Mexican restaurant (not kidding) for dinner. It was fabulous, and right on the edge of the cliffs looking to the water.
After dinner, we drove up to the ancient city called Thira, but it was closed for the night. We really wanted to be up high enough to see the sun set, but with the road closed, our only option was to basically rock climb up a mountain. I do not use ‘mountain’ lightly. The kicker? I was in a bathing suit, skirt, beater, flipflops, and my towel wrapped around me like a cape.
20 minutes later, we’re at the top watching the sun go down. We were -so- proud.
Sadly, the next day was time to go. We spent the morning shopping along the beach and laying on the sand/pebbles one last time. Our ferry ride home was only about a million times better than the one out. We got airplane seats in a comfortably temperatured cabin, with good food available. I admit I still held onto that towel that saw me up the mountain and through the ride here – I think I’m emotionally bound to it at this point.
The highlight of the ride and maybe the trip? As I am walking from the upper deck, where a plexiglass wall plus the sun made us a nice little sauna for the first part of the trip, to the lower decks where comfy chairs awaited, I stopped to look out at the water. I see a splash. The sun is just getting low in the sky, coloring the surface and the clouds paisley lavender and pink. And a dolphin jumps out of the water.
I literally gasp. My hands fly to my mouth. There’s no one else around to see as it jumps again. I watched for almost 10 more minutes, but there is no more sign of it. I was extatic.
Almost nearly as happy to get to shore. After disembarking, saying a sad goodbye to Joy and seeing her off to the airport, getting a bus and a tazy home, it was about 230 AM. We had our first class of the second session today – all the new peopel seem really nice. We’re hiking up to St. George again tonight for sunset. Should be fabulous.
Miss you all so much. Hope everything is well back home. I’m going to try and get some pictures from others to put on Yahoo to share.
Love to all!!!
Edit: pictures are up on Yahoo Photos!